Royal Jewel Records of the Seventeenth Century

The Accounts and Vouchers of Jewels furnished by George Heriot, the court jeweller, to Anne of Denmark, consort to James I., from the year 1605 to 1615, present some curious features of the predilection for jewellery of the Queen, and the fashions of royalty at that period. The total of Heriot's accounts, in little more than ten years, amounted to nearly pound 40,000, a large sum at that period. The following are extracts; the orthography, it may be observed, is as in the original accounts, and the money all sterling:--

"A Note of the Jewells received by Mr. George Herriott, at the handis of the Queene's most excellent Matie to be impawned, viz.: May 1, 1609.--One gold ring sett with a lairg thick table diamond, and set round about with small table diamondis; a rose jewell opening for a picture, sett on both the sides with diamondis; a crosse of gold, sett with seven diamondis and two rocke rubies. November, 1609.--A jewell in fashion of a bay leafe, opening for a picture, sett with diamondis.

"All which jewelles were, as he affirmeth, by her Mat's commandment, impawned for the sounme of mcccvli. xvs. The interest whereof, from the first of May, 1609, to the first of March, 1615, being six yeires and x moneths, amt. vnto the somes of mccxxxviijli. xxviijth of April, 1613, a jewell in fashion of a rose, set on the one side with diamondis, laid to pawne for the soume of vijcli. The interest, from the xxiijth of Aprill, 1613, to the xxiijth of Febyr., 1616, being two yeares and x moneths, is ccxxijli. xs. Total, ixcxxijli. xs.

"[A Breef of the Jewellis Mr. Heriott pawned for her Matie delivered to my Lo. Cooke.] For a diamond to be paid on bond, 1200li. A bound deated the xxix of Merch, 1613, off twelff hundreth punds, for which is pawned a ffayre round jewell, from George Abercromy vnto the Lady Rommeny, dwellin ffischmunger layne. Since the daett aboue-wrettin there is one halff yeares enterest payed.

"Mr. Heriottis bill of 1420li. 13s. 4d., to give satisfaction for the receipt of ixcxxli. of the Lord Knyvett.--Bought and receaued from our jeweller, George Heriote, theis jewells and other things under-written, furnished by him vnto us from the xxxist of December, 1605, to the xx of September, 1606, extendinge in all to the some of one thowssand ffower hundred and twentie pownds 13s. 4d. sterlinge Sould and deliuered to the Queene's most excellent Matie from the xth of Aprill, 1607, to the xth of February followinge, by George Heriote, her Highnes' jeweller, these jewells and other furnishings vnderwritten, extending in all to the some of One Thowsand, Sixe Hundred, Threescore One Pownds, Three Shillings Sterlinge.

"Imprimis, sould and deliured to her Matie one tablet for a picture sett with diamonds on the one side, price ljvjli. Item, for fower ounces of fyne musk de Levant, at xxxviijs. the ounce, vijli. xijs. Item, half an ounce of fine cynett, ijli. xs. Item, for a glass of balsome, ijli. Item, for garnishing of a pendant saphier, xxs. Item, for garnishing of a pendant dyamond, xxs. Item, for one eare-ringe conteyning xxxiiij diamonds, xxijli. Item, to her Matie on the xiij of Maye, one ring, with a table diamond on the head, and sett about the bodie with diamonds, xlvjli. Item, for making of an eare-ringe, xs. Item, made to her Matie a backside for a tablett, weighing in gold xviij pennywaight, extends to ijli. xiiijs. Item, for makinge of it, iijli. Item, sould and deliuered to her Matie on the xvijth of June, one ring, with a great pointed diamond, icli. Item, for a casse of crimson veluett for a tablett, with her Matie's picture, xijs. Item, the same daie, to her Matie a hoop ring, grauen, xvjs. Item, deliuered to Margarett Hartsyde, a ring set all about with diamonds, and a table diamond on the head, which she gave me to vnderstand was by her Matie's direction, price xxxli. Item, furnished to a tablet made for to be sent to her Mat's mother, the Queene of Denmark, xvj table diamonds, at xlvs. the peece, xxxvili. Item, furnished to the said tablett xxxvi diamonds at xxs. the peece, xxvjli. Item, vj diamonds iijli. the peece, xviijli. Item, ij diamonds at vli. the peece, xli. Item, for the diamond in the midle of the backsyde of the said tablet, xxxiiijli. Item, for making the said tablet, xxxijli. Item, for a case of veluet to it, xijs. Item, to her Matie, the xiiijth of September, one ring sett with ix diamonds, price xxxiijli. Item, on the ffyrst of October, one ring contayning v diamonds, viili. xs. Item, to her Matie on the iiijth of October, a little pendant in the form of a c, contayning xix diamonds, xxli. Item, to her Matie the viijth of October, a ring of a cross of diamonds, xxvli. Item, for gold and makinge of a braslett of diamonds, saphiers, and pearle, ijli. Item, on the xxth of October, a ring set about with diamonds, xxiijli. Item, a ring contayninge v diamonds, viijli. Item, one eare-ringe, sett with a table. 14th of March, a ring set with iiij diamondis, in forme of a rosse, xxxvli. Item, for the garnishing of vi doge collers, weighing in silver xix ounces, iiijli. xvs. Item, for the workmanshipe of the said collers, ijli. xs. Item, boght to the said collers, ij ounces iij quarters of silver lace, at vs. vjd. ounce, xvs. id. ob. Item, for making up of the said collers, at ijs. the peice, inde xijs. Item, for gold and makinge of a clasp for the froge jewell, xs. Item, on the 15th of Aprill, 1606, a jewell set with diamondis, weighing in gold ij ounces vij penyweights, inde vijli. xjs. iijd. Item, for making of the said jewel, xxxli. Item, a purceland cup, and putting it on a foote, vjs. Item, garnished a coller for a doge, weighing in silver one ounce and a half, vijs. vjd. Item, for the workmanship of it, vs. Item, the xth of Maye, a diamond ring in forme of a herte, vli. xs. Item, the xxijth of Maye, a ring set all about with diamondis, xxijli. Item, for setynge a ring twyce in plaine gold, and againe in a ring amellit black, jli. Item, for mending of the tablet of the Kinge of Denmarke's picture, jli. xs. Item, on the viijth of September, a ring set all about with diamondis, xxxijli. Item, a ring set with ix diamondis, at xxixli. Item, for a glasse of whyte balsome jli. xs. Item, a diamond set in a ring, of a hert betwixt two handis, iiijli. xs.

"Summa of the particularis aforesaid is just one thowssand ffower hundred and twentie pownds 13s. 4d. sterlinge. Which was payed as followeth, viz.: by Mistris Hartsyde, the some of ffyve hundred powndis; and by the Lord Knyvett, the some of nyne hundred and twentie powndis.

GEORGE HERIOTE."

"Janewarie, 1605.

"Imprimis, on the xxxith of December, one ring set all about with diamonds, with one diamond in the toppe, cut in forme of a rosse, at the pryce of jcxxli. Item, one other ring, set all about with diamondis, at lxli. Item, one rocke ring, set with xj diamondis, at xxxviijli. Item, a ring set with ix diamondis, at xxxiiijli. Item, a ring set with vij diamondis, at xviijli. Item, a ring set about with diamondis, at xxli. Item, a ring set with v diamondis, at ixli. Item, two rings, with a rubie and ij diamondis, in eatch, at vjli. the peice, inde xijli. Item, a ring set with a table diamond, at vli. Item, two ringis, with two handis, a hert with a diamond in eatch, at iijli. the peice, vjli. Item, a diamond, set in an open clawe ring, at xvli. Item, a ring set with vij diamondis, at xijli. Item, a diamond ring in forme of a hert, at iiijli. Item, two other hert and hand ringis with a diamond in eatch, at iijli. xs. the peice, vijli. Item, a ring set with a lairge diamond, at lxvli. Item, one rings set all about with diamondis, at xxiiijli. Item, another herte ring set with a diamond, iijli. xs. Item, a ring set with a small diamond, at ili. xs. Item, two pendantis set with xxj diamondis, xlviijli. Item, a jewell for a hat, set with xxix diamondis, lxxxli. Item, on the xij of Janewarie, xxiiij gold bottons, with v diamondis in eatch, at vli. the peice, inde jcxxli. Item, on the xxvj of Janewarie, a tablet for two pictures, set with diamondis on both the sydes, at the pryce of iiijclli. Item, two cristallis to the said tablet, iiijli. Item, a ring set with xi diamondis, at xvjli. Item, a silver bassone and ewer, at xxijli. Item, garnished lxxx currall beids, weighing in gold xiiij penyweight, ijli. ijs. Item, for workmanship of euerye one of them, xijd., inde iiijli. Item, for gold, and garnished a pair of braslitis of great pearles and saphires, iiijli. Item, put to v great diamondis, v needles and v scrues of gold, weighing xvj penyweight, inde ijli. viijs. Item, for making the said needles, and putting to the said scrues, ijli. xs. Item, an eare-ring with a diamond in it, iijli. xs. Item, for garnishing of a pearle, xs. Item, for vj silver needles at ijs. the peice, inde xijs. Item, for making a jewell weighed in gold, one ounce xviij penyweight, vli. xiiijs. Item, for sundrye mendings of old jewellis and plate for the tyme aforesaid, iijli. Item, on the xth of March, one perfumynge pann, parcell gilt, for the making and guildinge thereof, ijli. xs. Item, furnished to it v ounces ij penyweight of silver, ili. vs. vid. Item, on the diamond, iijli. Item, for golde and makinge of a foote for the picture of Hercules, xxxs. Item, for gold and making of a braslett of rubies and opalls, iiijli. xs. Item, furnished to the said braslett ij rubies at ijli. xs. the peece, vli. Item, one ring in forme of a garter, of diamonds and rubies, iiijli. xs. Item, to one opall, price xxxvis. Item, on the iijth of December, a ring, in forme of a pensse, set with v diamonds, price xxxvjli. Item, on the viijth of December, a border of gold, sett with pearle, xxli. Item, garnished xij saphiers, waighing in gold xij penyweight, ijli. xiiijs. Item, for making of them, iijli. Item, for pearcing and polishinge of ij of the saphiers, xxs. Item, for a ring with vj diamonds, ixli. Item, for sundrie mendings in the tyme aforesaid, iijli.

"The ffyrst of January, 1607.

"Item, delivered to her Matie one jewell in forme of a feather sett with diamonds, one other round jewell, also sett with diamonds, price of both two hundreth pownds, ijcli. Item, xxiiij gold buttons, sett with a diamond in each of them, at iiijli. xs. the peece, jcviijli. Item, a tablet for a picture, sett with diamonds, lxli. Item, one great ring in forme of a hart, lxxxli. Item, a ringe, with a table diamond on the head, and sett about with diamonds, xxxijli. Item, one other ring, set about with xxiiij diamonds, xxijli. Item, a ring containing fiue diamonds, vjli. Item, taken out of a chayne, which I showed vnto her Matie, iij rings, price of them, iijli. Item, the garnishing of her Mats great saphier, waying in gold x penyweight xij graines, xxxijs. Item, for makinge of the said garnishinge, ijli. xs. Item, made a screw and a bodkin for a jewell, waighing in gold vij penywaight xij graines, xxijs. vjd. Item, for makinge the said screw and nedle, xij. Item, for garnishynge two great pendant rubies, xxs. Item, for makinge a ring for a great diamond, xxiiijs. Item, a ring contayning vij diamonds, vijli. xs. Item, delivered to her Matie on the xxviijth of January, a ring with ix diamonds on the head, and sett about with diamonds, jli. Item, a feather for a hatt, all sett with diamonds, jli. Item, on the x of Februarie, a jewell with an A and two C C, sett with diamonds, iijcli.

"Summa total of this accompt is one thowsand sixe hundred threescore one powndes three shillings sterling.

"Rests unpaid of this accompt the some of eight hundreth fowerscore pownds sterlinge.

"ANNA R."

The following list is made out from the other Account of Jewels, the most curious of which are here enumerated:--

"A ring in form of a garter; a case for a jewel of crimson velvet, laid with gold lace; for making a brilliant in form of a ship; for gold, and making of a Valentine; for 48 nails of gold; for garnishing 32 grat pearls, with needles of gold; 21 pennyweight of gold to a spoon, and making the same; for gilting and garnishing a cup of jasper-stone; for making a clawring for a pointed diamond; 40 gold buttons, a diamond in each; a jewel, in form of an A, set with diamonds; for setting of a great diamond in a ring, which her Majestie had taken out of the ring herself; making a tablet for a picture, and a crystal to the said tablet; a ringe set with 5 little Turkis stones; for making and gilting 4 great clasps for two great books; a ring in form of a rock; a ring with a heart and a serpent, all set about with diamonds; a ring in form of a flower-de-luce of diamonds; a pendant all set with diamonds; for 14 great buttons and 14 Scotis diamondis set in them; for gold, and making a skrew and a bodkin for a great rubye; for silver, and making of 13 dozen of buckles, whereof 4 dozen were gilt; a ring, set with 5 diamonds, in form of a rose; a coronet of pearls and diamonds; a cross of diamonds; two pendants made like Moore's heads, and all sett with diamonds; a ring, with a single diamond set in a heart betwixt two hands; 9 diamonds furnished to the bayleaf; for gold, and making of a muske million, wherein there stood a great rubie; furnished to the said muske million 21 diamonds; a great ring in the form of a perssed eye and a perssed heart, all sett with diamonds; a ring, in forme of a dart, sett with diamonds; 64 ounces of small seed pearle; received from Patrick Simpson, servant to our said jeweller, one great ring, in forme of a frog, all sett with diamonds, price two hundreth poundis. Item, from the said Patrick, a jewell in forme of a butterfly; a jewell in forme of a lillye, sett with diamonds; a pendant sett with diamonds, in forme of the letter C; a broach for a hatt, set with diamonds; a ring, sett with diamonds in forme of a St. Andrew's Crosse; for a pearl pendant and crystall to a tablet; an anker sett with diamonds; a lock of a braslett sett with 9 diamonds. Item, for a diamond was hung to a pendant of a Moore's head; five ounces and a half of fyne civett, at li 4 the ounce; a braslite sett with diamonds, emeroids, Turkois, and rubies; a racket of gold, set with 38 table diamonds; for making of 30 pieces of a collar of roses, set with great diamonds; garnished 60 muske beads, and two muske pendants; for gold, and making of a needle and a skrew for the King of Denmark's picture. The embrotherer, 28 ounces of pearl; to Mathew Harestenes, by her Maj. directions, a ring set with 13 table diamondis; for twyce making of a gold needle sett with 60 diamondis; for making of the said needle, the third tyme; for making a casse for a picture on the backside of a rose and diamondis; a jewell in forme of a honey-suckle; a pair of pendants, made lyke two drums, sett with diamondis; to the goldsmith's officer for warning of her Majestie's diamond, which was lost at Salisburie, 6s. 8d.; the Prince's cypher, set with 38 table diamonds. March, 1611: for a christall to the infanteis picture, and mending of the tablet, 16II; a ring in fashion of a dart, sett about with diamonds; a ring, sett with a diamond in forme of a hart, and a diamond in forme of an eye; a ring with a table diamond, enamelled black; a ring enamelled blew, sett with an harte diamond; a ring with a harte and two handis, sett with a diamond; two gold chaines; a jewell in forme of a jolly flower, sett with diamonds; a diamond cut with fawcette, sett in an open clawe ring; a table buike, sett on both the sides with diamonds; a jewell in forme of a horne of aboundance, set with 6 rose diamondis and 12 table diamondis; due unto him more for jewelles retained unto her Maj. owne handis, to be carried on her first and second jorneys to the Bathe, viz., in April, 1613, and August following, mmmvcxlvli. xs.; for 12 ounces of fair round curallae; a ring of a blacke hert with a table diamond; for peircinge 12 rocke rubies; furnished to the said braslete of rubies, 11 diamondis; owing by the Lady Sutch, fowerscore and one powndis, which she affirmes her Maj. is pleased to paye; a pair of peer pendants, sett with diamondis; a ring of a burning heart; set with diamondis; a jewell in forme of a starre, set with diamondis; two pendants of diamonds like the letter A; a little pendant diamond was hunge at the heart of a turquoise; for gold, and making a nidle for the hair; for a crystall to the tablet wherein is the Infant of Spain's pictur, Ili. Iosh.; a ring in forme of a scallope-shell, set with a table diamond, and opening on the head; a cross ring set in lossen fashione; a hert ring sett all about with diamondis, and opening with a cross of diamondis within the head of it; a pair of pendentis of two handis, and two serpentis hanging at them; a parrate of diamondis; a pendant made like a corslete, set with diamonds; a ring of a love trophe, set with diamondis; two rings, lyke black flowers, with a table diamond in each; a pendant of a coronet herte; a ring, like a froge, set with diamonds, opening on the head; a ring like the letter A, set with diamonds; for mending the King of Denmark's cipher, and making a nidle and a huike to it; a tablet with a cipher A and C set in the one syde with diamonds; for setting of a great table diamond, and a longe pendant diamond in a jewell a joure; an S ring set with diamondis; a ring of a Jerusalem crosse, of diamonds; a leaf ring of diamonds; a daisie ring sett with a table diamond; a jewell in fashione of a bay-leaf, opening for a pictur, and sett with diamondis on the one syde; a pair of lizard pendantis sett with diamondis; a starre pendant sett with diamonds; a pendant sett with diamonds in leafe fashion; a ring in forme of a pierced hart; a jewell for a hatt, in forme of a bay leafe, all sett with diamonds; for a little watch all sett over with diamonds, sold the 12th September, 1611, pound 170; for a ryng sett all over with diamondis, made in fashion of a lizard, the same day, pound 120; a crosse with six table diamondis and three pendantis; two globe pendantis sett with 48 diamondis; two peare pendantis sett with diamonds; a ring sett with 3 diamonds, in forme of a flieing hart; a cupp of gold, with a cover to it, and a say-taste of gold, both graven and enamelled, pound 26; a ring set with 9 diamonds, and opening on the head, with the king's picture in that."

Warrant of Privy Seal for payment to George Heriot of Seven Hundred and Fifty Pounds. 18th October, 1605:--

"James, by the grace of God, Kinge of England, Scotland, France, and Ireland, Defender of the Faith, to the Treasurer and Chamberlains of our Exchequer, greeting.--Whereas, at the departing from hence of the Conte Villa Mediana, late ambassadour here from our good brother the Kinge of Spaine, there was bought of George Heriott, goldsmith, by the Queene, our most deare wife, a cheine of stone, and pearle of the value of fower hundred and fiftie pounds, and a tablet, with a picture therein of our said wife, the Queene, amounting to the soume of three hundred pounds, which tablett was given to the said ambassadour himself, and the cheine to the ladie, his wife; we will and command you, out of our treasure, to the receipt of our Exchequer, to cause to be delivered and paid to the said George Herriott, or to his assigne, both the above said soumes, amounting in the whole to seaven hundred and fiftie pounds; and theis our letters shall be your sufficient warrant and discharge in this behalf. Given under our privie seale, at our Pallace of Westminster, the 18th daie of October, in the third yeare of our raigne of England, France, and Ireland, and of Scotland the nyne and thirtieth."

Among the valuable manuscript collections in the Advocates' Library, Edinburgh, is the "Jewel-Book of Queen Anne, wife of James VI.," a very curious Inventory, in folio.

In the "Archaeologia" (vol. xv.) there is "An Inventorie of the Jewelles belonging once to the high and mightie prince Henry, Prince of great Brytane (died Nov., 1612). A Crowne sett with Dyamants, Saphirs, and Emeraudes. A very riche cros Sword all sett with Dyamants, with chap richlie sett, gevin be her Matie at his creation. A Rapier and Dagger enamelled and sett with Dyamants, geven to the King of Denmarke. A Sword with a cros hilt, enamelled, sett with Dyamants, geven be my lord Harrington. A chayne of Spanish work sett with Dyamants, with a great George hanging thereat. A great riche Jewell in forme of a Crescent, given out of his Matie's owne store. A great George sett with dyamants upon both sydes. Twelf great Buttons, all sett with dyamants. A great Agat George, sett with Dyamants upon the one syde. Another great George, sett with Dyamants upon the one syde, and with Rubies on the other. Fyve other Georges sett with Dyamants. Thre little Georges of plane gold. One Garter all sett with Dyamants. One Garter of gold letters, with Dyamantes thinne sett. Two Garter of perles. A great Saphir. A great ballat Rubie, with a great Perle hanging theretoe. Another ballat Rubie, in forme of an H, with perles upon everie syde, with a great perle hanging theretoe. A helmet upon a shield, with a plume, sett with Dyamants. A payre of Brydell bosses sett with Dyamants. A payre of gold Spurres sett with Dyamants. A Thistle, with Dyamants and Rubies. A booke of an Agat, sett with Dyamants.