About the Jewels on the Regalia of Past Emperors of Hindoostan

Portraits of Baber, a descendant in the fourth generation from Timour of Western Tartary, represent his royal apparel as exceeding in splendour either that of his son or grandson, Humaiun and Akbar, or any of their successors on the Imperial throne of Hindoostan. All their portraits are noticeable as lacking a "Cydaris" or tiara, or royal turban, comparable to that worn by Baber, which is worth describing. The rose composition in the front contains twelve large diamonds in the circumference, and within this are ranged twelve pearls, and in the centre a magnificent rose-cut diamond. On the top is an angular diamond, of the shape of that mentioned by Tavernier, and surrounded by fourteen pearls; these are, in their turn, surmounted by two feathers, at the base and ends of which are pendant pearls of immense size. Literally hundreds of diamonds are ranged in the circumference of the cap, which mounts considerably higher above the head than the whole length of face and beard. Four similar roses are on the royal coat sleeves, and 20 diamonds and 98 pearls, in double row, constitute the necklace and 18 diamonds fringed on top and bottom with pearls form bracelets for the upper arm. Baber's son, Humayun, wore the same, 12 diamonds with 12 smaller, and 10 smaller pearls with the fine rose centre, surmounted with the same pointed diamond and feather, but except that the turban was surrounded mid-way with two rows of pearls, the "cydaris" (tiara), had no other gems. In Akbar's cap were the same rose and surmounts, and somewhat different necklaces coming down to the waist. The "cydaris" State turban of Jehanghir was adorned with the same star and surmounts, but his necklaces combined his father's single and Baber's double necklace, beside which he had earrings with three pearls transfixed in each. Aurung-zeb wore on his turban the same star with a pearl pendant and surmounts; like his predecessors, his dress resembled Baber's with the exception of the elaborate Cap of Maintenance. Possibly the heart-shaped diamond was either the surmount common to all the above-mentioned Mogul emperors, or the central diamond of the enormous rose trinket worn in the front of the regal turban. That either might weigh 35 carats it is not difficult to conjecture. Aurung-zeb had no earrings. We have seen that the above princes modified the great ornaments, and that the crown jeweller would undoubtedly have the opportunity of shewing the French merchant on a business visit, the jewels in question. That these gems were the regalia, and not the private property of the emperor will be rendered probable, as Nadir Shah wore the same star and surmount on his very ugly hat, more like Charles James Fox's beaver than a Cap of Maintenance.